Classic Mac Parts from Sun Remarketing
Original Apple logic boards, analog boards, drives, keyboards, and cases — tested and ready to ship from our decades-long inventory.
Sun Remarketing & the Classic Macintosh
Sun Remarketing was one of the largest resellers and refurbishers of classic Macintosh hardware throughout the late 1980s and 1990s. We bought surplus inventory directly from Apple, refurbished thousands of compact and modular Macs, and shipped them to schools, businesses, and individuals worldwide. From the original 128K through the Performa line, these machines passed through our shop by the pallet. This guide draws on that hands-on experience across an entire generation of Macintosh hardware.
In This Guide
1. Overview & What to Expect
The classic Macintosh line spans twelve years of Apple engineering, from the original Macintosh 128K in January 1984 through the final Performa models in 1996. This guide covers every 680x0-based Macintosh — compact all-in-ones with built-in CRTs, modular desktop machines, and the later all-in-one LC and Performa variants. Millions of these machines were produced, and a remarkable number survive, though almost all of them need some degree of service to run reliably today.
The difficulty of restoration varies significantly by model category:
Compact Macs (128K/512K/Plus/SE/Classic):
Hard
Modular Macs (II/IIx/IIci/Quadra/LC/Performa):
Medium
Compact Macs are harder because they contain a built-in 9-inch CRT that stores lethal voltage, making disassembly inherently dangerous. The analog board that drives the CRT is a common failure point. Modular Macs are more approachable — they use standard external monitors and have logic boards that are easier to access. Either way, expect the same core issues: leaking capacitors, dead batteries, failed hard drives, and degraded floppy mechanisms.
A typical restoration takes 4–12 hours depending on the model and the extent of damage. Budget $50–200 in parts for a basic restoration, plus tools if you do not already have a soldering station.
💡 Where to Start
Regardless of which model you have, always start by removing the PRAM battery (Section 6) and inspecting the logic board for capacitor leakage (Section 4). These two issues cause more dead classic Macs than everything else combined. If you only do two things, do those.
2. CRT Safety — Read This First
⚠️ CRITICAL: Lethal Voltage Inside Compact Macs
Every compact Macintosh (128K, 512K, 512Ke, Plus, SE, SE/30, Classic, Classic II) contains a built-in 9-inch cathode ray tube. The CRT anode can hold over 15,000 volts even when the machine has been unplugged for months or years. Contact with the anode cap or the flyback transformer leads at this voltage can cause cardiac arrest and death. This is not a theoretical risk — people have died from CRT discharge.
If you are working on a compact Macintosh, you must discharge the CRT before touching anything inside the case. If you have never worked with CRTs before, seriously consider having an experienced technician handle the disassembly, or at minimum, supervise your first attempt.
How to Discharge a Compact Mac CRT
1
Prepare a Discharge Tool
You need a CRT discharge tool: a flathead screwdriver with an insulated handle, connected via a clip lead (alligator clip wire) to the metal chassis ground of the Mac. The clip lead should have at least a 1MΩ resistor inline to bleed the charge slowly rather than creating a violent arc. Some technicians use a 10MΩ resistor for an even gentler discharge.
2
Locate the Anode Cap
The anode cap is a rubber suction cup attached to the side of the CRT funnel, usually near the top. It connects to the flyback transformer via a thick red wire. You will slide the screwdriver tip under this rubber cap to make contact with the metal clip beneath it.
3
Discharge the CRT
With one hand behind your back (to prevent a path across your heart), carefully slide the insulated screwdriver under the anode cap until you hear a snap or pop. This is the charge discharging to ground. Repeat 2–3 times. Even after discharge, treat the CRT with respect — the tube can rebuild a small surface charge. Always re-discharge before touching CRT components.
⚠ Modular Macs Are Safe
If you are working on a Macintosh II, IIx, IIcx, IIci, IIfx, Quadra, LC, Centris, or Performa desktop unit, there is no CRT inside the machine. These use external monitors and can be safely opened without discharge procedures. This CRT safety section applies only to compact all-in-one models and the Performa/LC 500-series all-in-ones (520, 550, 575, 580).
3. Identifying Your Mac
Classic Macs span dozens of models across several form factors. Before you start a restoration, you need to know exactly what you have, because the logic board layout, capacitor count, and service procedures differ. Here are the major categories:
Compact Macs (Built-in CRT)
- Macintosh 128K (M0001, 1984)
- Macintosh 512K (M0001W, 1984)
- Macintosh 512Ke (M0001E, 1986)
- Macintosh Plus (M0001A, 1986)
- Macintosh SE (M5010, 1987)
- Macintosh SE/30 (M5119, 1989)
- Macintosh Classic (M0420, 1990)
- Macintosh Classic II (M4150, 1991)
Modular Desktops
- Macintosh II (M5000, 1987)
- Macintosh IIx (M5800, 1988)
- Macintosh IIcx (M5650, 1989)
- Macintosh IIci (M5780, 1989)
- Macintosh IIfx (M5525, 1990)
- Quadra 700/800/900/950
- Centris 610/650/660AV
- Quadra 605/610/630/650/660AV/840AV
All-in-One LC/Performa
- LC 520/550/575/580
- Performa 520/550/575/580
- Performa 400/405/410/430
- Performa 450/460/466/467
- Performa 475/476
- Performa 600/630/635/636/637/638
- Color Classic (M1600, 1993)
- Color Classic II (1993)
You can identify your Mac by checking the model number on the rear label (e.g., M5119 for SE/30) or by using the Gestalt ID in software. The Macintosh SE/30 and IIci are widely considered the most desirable models for restoration, combining expandability with the classic compact or desktop form factor.
💡 CPU Quick Reference
128K/512K/Plus: Motorola 68000 @ 8 MHz. SE: 68000 @ 8 MHz. SE/30: 68030 @ 16 MHz. Mac II/IIx: 68020/68030 @ 16 MHz. IIci: 68030 @ 25 MHz. IIfx: 68030 @ 40 MHz. Quadra series: 68040 @ 25–40 MHz. Knowing your CPU helps when sourcing replacement chips and diagnosing bus errors.
4. The #1 Killer: Capacitor Leakage
Difficulty:
Hard
Electrolytic capacitor leakage is the single most common cause of death in classic Macintosh computers. Between 1987 and 1996, Apple used surface-mount electrolytic capacitors on logic boards that were manufactured with water-based electrolyte. Over time — whether the machine is used or not — this electrolyte leaks out of the capacitor casing, spreads across the PCB, and corrodes traces, pads, and via connections. The damage is progressive: the longer you wait, the worse it gets.
The most severely affected models are:
- Macintosh SE/30 — notorious for cap leakage; almost every surviving SE/30 has some degree of damage
- Macintosh IIci — the logic board uses numerous SMD electrolytics that leak aggressively
- Macintosh Classic II — same generation of caps as the SE/30
- Macintosh LC, LCII, LCIII — all use the same problematic SMD cap style
- Quadra 700 — capacitor leakage causes the infamous "chimes of death"
- All Performa models — same capacitor technology, same failure mode
The earlier compact Macs (128K, 512K, Plus) use through-hole electrolytic capacitors on their logic boards, which are far less prone to leaking. Their analog boards, however, still have electrolytics that age and should be replaced.
How to Identify Capacitor Leakage
Remove the logic board and inspect it under bright light with magnification. Look for:
- Brown or amber residue around the base of SMD electrolytic capacitors — this is leaked electrolyte
- Corroded or eaten-away traces near capacitors, especially on the underside of the board
- Dark staining on the PCB substrate that does not wipe off
- A vinegar-like smell when you sniff the board closely — this is the acidic electrolyte
- Lifted or missing solder pads where the corrosion has eaten through the copper
Cleaning the Damage
1
Remove All Electrolytic Capacitors
Using a soldering iron with a fine tip (or hot air rework station for SMD caps), remove every electrolytic capacitor from the logic board. For SMD caps, apply flux and heat each pad alternately until the cap releases. Do not twist or pry — you will lift pads. For through-hole caps, use solder wick or a desoldering pump. Count the caps and map their values and locations before removal (or photograph the board first).
⏲ Estimated time: 1–2 hours
2
Clean the Board Thoroughly
Scrub the entire board with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft-bristle toothbrush, paying special attention to areas around capacitor pads. For heavy corrosion, use a cotton swab dipped in white vinegar to neutralize the electrolyte, then follow immediately with IPA. Some restorers use an ultrasonic cleaner with distilled water and a small amount of dish soap, followed by a thorough IPA rinse and 24–48 hours of drying. Inspect both sides of the board — electrolyte wicks through vias to the opposite side.
⏲ Estimated time: 1–2 hours
3
Inspect Traces and Repair Damage
Under magnification, trace every PCB trace in the affected area. If a trace is broken, you will need to scrape the solder mask off a healthy section on each side of the break and bridge it with a fine jumper wire (30 AWG Kynar wire works well). If a pad is missing, you may need to solder the new capacitor lead directly to the trace. On SE/30 boards, the UE8 and UI8 areas are common damage zones — check continuity with a multimeter on every trace in these areas.
⏲ Estimated time: 1–4 hours depending on severity
4
Install New Capacitors
Replace all electrolytics with new caps of the same value and voltage rating (or higher voltage). Use high-quality 105°C-rated capacitors. You can use either SMD or through-hole replacements — many restorers prefer tantalum or polymer SMD caps for their longevity and zero leakage risk. A typical SE/30 logic board has approximately 14 SMD electrolytics; a IIci has about 12. Pre-made recap kits for specific Mac models are available and save time on sourcing individual values.
⏲ Estimated time: 1–2 hours
⚠ Do Not Power On Before Recapping
If you suspect capacitor leakage, do not power on the machine before cleaning and recapping. Leaked electrolyte is conductive and can cause short circuits that damage ICs — including the custom Apple ASICs (GLU, BBU, SWIM) that are irreplaceable. Power the machine only after the board is fully cleaned, inspected, and recapped.
5. Analog Board Service (Compact Macs Only)
Difficulty:
Expert
The analog board in compact Macintosh models is the power supply and CRT driver combined into a single board. It converts AC mains power into the DC voltages the logic board needs (+5V, +12V, -5V, -12V) and generates the high-voltage sweep signals that drive the CRT. This board operates at lethal voltages and should only be serviced by experienced technicians.
⚠ High Voltage Work — Experts Only
The analog board contains components operating at mains voltage (120V/240V AC) and the flyback transformer generates 15,000+ volts DC for the CRT anode. Only work on this board if you are experienced with high-voltage electronics. Always discharge the CRT first (Section 2) and unplug the machine for at least 30 minutes before service.
Common Analog Board Failures
5
Flyback Transformer (TDK or Magtek)
The flyback transformer is the most critical and most failure-prone component. It generates the high voltage for the CRT. Symptoms of flyback failure include: no display (board clicks but no raster), arcing sounds, burning smell, or visible cracks in the flyback housing. On the Macintosh Plus, the original TDK flyback (Apple P/N 157-0042) is known to develop internal shorts. Replacements are available but increasingly rare. Test the flyback by measuring resistance across the primary windings (should be a few ohms) and checking for shorts between primary and secondary (should read open).
⏲ Estimated time: 30 minutes to diagnose, 1 hour to replace
6
Horizontal Output Transistor (HOT)
The horizontal output transistor drives the flyback transformer and runs extremely hot. On the Macintosh Plus and SE, the original 2SC3042 (or equivalent) transistor frequently fails from thermal stress. Check it with a multimeter in diode mode — a shorted HOT reads near zero ohms across all terminals. Replacements include the 2SD1555 or BU406D, which are more robust. When replacing, always apply fresh thermal compound and ensure the heatsink is making good contact.
⏲ Estimated time: 45 minutes
7
Analog Board Recap
The analog board contains 15–25 electrolytic capacitors depending on the model, all of which should be replaced during a restoration. Pay particular attention to the large high-voltage filter capacitors (typically 47μF–220μF at 200V–400V) — these are critical for stable operation and can fail catastrophically. Replace all electrolytics with 105°C-rated caps of equivalent or higher voltage rating. The low-voltage section caps (+5V, +12V rail filtering) affect system stability, while the high-voltage section caps affect display quality.
⏲ Estimated time: 2–3 hours
8
CRT Neck Board
The CRT neck board plugs onto the back of the CRT tube and carries the video signal, brightness control, and heater filament connections. Cracked solder joints on this board are common — the weight of the connector and thermal cycling cause fatigue. Reflow all solder joints on the neck board with fresh solder. Check the focus and brightness potentiometers (small trimmer pots) and clean them with contact cleaner if adjustments are scratchy or intermittent.
⏲ Estimated time: 30 minutes
💡 Display Adjustments
After recapping the analog board, you will likely need to adjust the display geometry. The compact Mac analog board has several trimmers: width, height, vertical linearity, vertical hold, brightness, and focus. Adjust these with a plastic alignment tool (never a metal screwdriver near the CRT) with the machine powered on. Use a crosshatch test pattern for precise geometry adjustments.
6. PRAM Battery Removal
Difficulty:
Easy
Every classic Macintosh contains a 3.6V lithium battery (typically a Tadiran TL-5101 or Maxell ER3 1/2AA) that powers the parameter RAM (PRAM) and real-time clock when the machine is off. After 30–40 years, these batteries are either dead or actively leaking corrosive electrolyte onto the logic board. This is the second most common cause of logic board death after capacitor leakage.
9
Remove the Battery Immediately
This is the single most important thing you can do when you acquire any classic Mac: remove the PRAM battery before doing anything else. On compact Macs (Plus, SE, SE/30, Classic, Classic II), the battery is on the logic board and requires removing the board from the case. On modular Macs (II, IIci, Quadra, etc.), the battery is typically in a holder on the logic board that is accessible once you remove the case lid. In either case, remove the battery, inspect the board for leakage, and clean any residue with 99% IPA. If the battery has leaked, follow the same cleaning procedures as Section 4.
⏲ Estimated time: 10–30 minutes
10
Replace with a Fresh Battery (Optional)
A new 3.6V 1/2AA lithium battery will restore PRAM and clock functionality. Without the battery, the Mac will still boot and operate normally, but it will lose the date, time, and startup disk selection each time it is powered off. If you replace the battery, use a high-quality unit (Tadiran TL-5902, Saft LS14250, or equivalent). Consider installing a battery holder instead of soldering the battery directly to the board — this makes future replacement trivial and eliminates the risk of forgetting about it.
⏲ Estimated time: 15 minutes
💡 Pro Tip: Set a Calendar Reminder
If you install a new PRAM battery, set a reminder to check it in 5–7 years. Modern lithium cells last longer than the originals, but they will eventually die. A battery holder makes future checks a 30-second job instead of a soldering project.
7. Floppy Drive Service
Difficulty:
Medium
Classic Macs used three types of floppy drives over the years, all based on the 3.5-inch form factor but with different capacities and mechanisms:
- 400K single-sided drive (128K, 512K) — Sony OA-D34V, single-sided, variable-speed GCR encoding
- 800K double-sided drive (512Ke, Plus, SE) — Sony MP-F51W, double-sided, variable-speed GCR
- 1.44MB SuperDrive (SE FDHD, SE/30, IIci, and all later models) — Sony MP-F75W, reads/writes both GCR and MFM formats
All of these drives are mechanical devices with rubber parts that degrade over time. The most common issues are failed eject mechanisms, dirty or misaligned heads, and worn-out lubrication.
11
Clean the Drive Heads
Use a lint-free swab (foam-tipped, not cotton) dampened with 99% isopropyl alcohol to gently clean the read/write heads. The upper and lower heads are accessible by carefully opening the head carriage. Wipe in the direction of head travel (side to side), not along the disk rotation. Contaminated heads cause read errors, format failures, and the dreaded "This disk is unreadable" dialog.
⏲ Estimated time: 15 minutes
12
Lubricate the Eject Mechanism
The eject gear train uses a small worm gear driven by the eject motor. Apply a tiny amount of white lithium grease to the gear teeth. The slide rails should be lubricated with a light machine oil (sewing machine oil works well). Do not use WD-40 — it is a solvent, not a lubricant, and will attract dust. A sticky or jammed eject mechanism is usually just dried grease; lubrication alone often fixes it.
⏲ Estimated time: 20 minutes
13
Replace the Auto-Inject Gear (If Applicable)
The 800K and 1.44MB drives have an automatic inject/eject mechanism with a small plastic gear that is prone to cracking. If your drive makes a grinding noise on eject or fails to eject at all, this gear is likely the culprit. Replacement gears are available from vintage Mac parts suppliers. The gear swap requires partial disassembly of the drive mechanism but is straightforward with patience.
⏲ Estimated time: 45 minutes
💡 Floppy Emulators
If your floppy drive is beyond repair, or if you simply want a more convenient way to load software, a FloppyEmu from BMOW is an excellent option. It connects to the external floppy port (DB-19) and emulates 400K, 800K, and 1.44MB drives using disk images stored on an SD card. This preserves the original drive while giving you a reliable alternative.
8. Hard Drive Replacement
Difficulty:
Medium
Most classic Macs from the SE onward included an internal SCSI hard drive (the 128K, 512K, and Plus models use an external SCSI port for hard drives). These original SCSI drives — typically manufactured by Quantum, Conner, Seagate, or Maxtor — are 30–40 years old and many have failed or are failing. Symptoms include clicking sounds, failure to spin up, the blinking question mark icon (no boot device), or increasingly slow performance with read errors.
Modern SCSI Replacements
Fortunately, there are excellent modern alternatives that replace the original mechanical SCSI drive with solid-state storage:
14
SCSI2SD (v5 or v6)
The SCSI2SD is a small PCB that connects to the internal 50-pin SCSI ribbon cable and presents one or more SD cards as SCSI hard drives. The v5.2 is the current recommended version for classic Macs. It supports SCSI IDs 0–7, allows partitioning the SD card into multiple virtual drives, and is compatible with all 680x0 Macs. Configuration is done via a USB connection and the scsi2sd-util software. Set the drive to SCSI ID 0 for the internal boot drive. Use an SD card of 4GB or less for best compatibility with older formatters, or partition a larger card into smaller volumes.
⏲ Estimated time: 30–60 minutes to install and configure
15
BlueSCSI
BlueSCSI is an open-source alternative to SCSI2SD that is even simpler to configure. You place raw disk image files directly on the SD card with specific naming conventions (e.g., HD00_512.hda for a 512MB drive at SCSI ID 0), and BlueSCSI presents them as SCSI devices. No configuration software is needed. BlueSCSI v2 uses a Raspberry Pi Pico and supports all classic Mac SCSI buses. It is particularly popular for its simplicity and low cost. Kits and pre-assembled units are available on eBay and Tindie.
⏲ Estimated time: 20–30 minutes to install
16
Format and Install the System
Once your SCSI replacement is installed, you need to format the drive and install a System. Boot from a floppy disk or FloppyEmu with the appropriate System installer. For compact Macs, use Apple HD SC Setup 7.3.5 (patched to recognize non-Apple drives) or Lido 7.56 (freeware, works with any SCSI device). Format the drive, then install the System software. Recommended System versions: System 6.0.8 for 68000 Macs (Plus, SE, Classic), System 7.1 for 68030 Macs (SE/30, IIci), System 7.5.5 for 68040 Macs (Quadra series).
⏲ Estimated time: 30–60 minutes
💡 External SCSI for the 128K, 512K, and Plus
The Macintosh 128K and 512K have no SCSI port at all — they boot exclusively from floppy. The 512Ke and Plus have an external DB-25 SCSI port. For these models, you can use a SCSI2SD or BlueSCSI in an external enclosure connected via a DB-25 to 50-pin SCSI cable. Make sure to use proper SCSI termination on the last device in the chain.
9. Parts Sourcing Guide
Here are the key parts you will need for a classic Mac restoration, with current sourcing options:
| Part | Est. Cost | Where to Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Logic board recap kit (model-specific) SMD or tantalum caps, 105°C rated |
$12–30 | |
| Analog board recap kit (compact Macs) Through-hole electrolytics, HV filter caps |
$15–35 | |
| SCSI2SD v5.2 Solid-state SCSI drive replacement |
$70–90 | |
| BlueSCSI v2 Open-source SCSI emulator (RP2040-based) |
$35–60 | |
| 3.6V 1/2AA lithium battery PRAM/clock replacement (LS14250 or TL-5902) |
$5–12 | |
| 1/2AA battery holder PCB mount, for easy future replacement |
$2–5 | |
| Replacement logic board SE/30, IIci, Quadra, etc. — tested/working |
$50–300+ | |
| Flyback transformer (compact Macs) TDK or Magtek, model-specific |
$25–80 | |
| Replacement case (compact or desktop) Plastics, battery covers, drive bezels |
$20–150 | |
| FloppyEmu (BMOW) Floppy drive emulator, reads SD card images |
$80–110 | |
| Floppy drive eject gear Replacement auto-inject gear for 800K/1.44MB drives |
$8–15 | |
| Original Mac parts (boards, drives, cases) | Varies widely |
10. Sun Remarketing Parts
Four Decades of Classic Mac Service
Sun Remarketing refurbished and resold classic Macintosh computers throughout the late 1980s and 1990s. We handled everything from 128K units to Performa desktops, and we still carry original Apple parts from that era — logic boards, analog boards, floppy drives, power supplies, keyboards, cases, and more. If you need a specific part for your restoration, check our eBay store.
Affiliate Disclosure: Sun Remarketing is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. We also sell original Macintosh parts directly through our eBay store. Links to eBay and Amazon on this page may be affiliate links. Read our full disclosure.